Wishing you a boot-iful time Northampton Museum and Art Gallery is home to one of the largest collections of shoes and shoe heritage in the world. The collection’s strength lies in its very broad range, from Ancient Egypt to the latest fashions, from workwear to high-end designer creations and from Northamptonshire-made shoes to footwear from around the world. But we don’t just collect shoes. The scope of the collection covers accessories including buckles and laces, shoehorns, shoe trees, spats and polish, shoemaking tools and machines, catalogues, trade journals and photographs and paintings and prints depicting shoes and shoemaking. This postcard shows a well-worn pair of boots which are not the most Christmassy of images, but perhaps because they are very well worn, they symbolise the wearer’s very essence, strength and luck, attributes that can be positively passed to others. So, the sender of this postcard is sending the recipient lots of luck, hope and strength for the future. Unfortunately, the card was never written on so sadly we don’t know who it was for.
Remembrance Day on November 11, 2020, also known as Armistice Day, marks 102 years since the end of the First World War. People in Northampton and Northamptonshire have specialised in making shoes for hundreds of years. Their shoemaking reputation as producers of good quality men’s footwear and military footwear was sealed in 1648 when shoemaker Thomas Pendleton obtained a contract for 2,500 shoes to be made for Oliver Cromwell’s parliamentary army going to Ireland in 1649. The United Kingdom manufactured about 70 million pairs of boots and shoes for the Allied armies during the First World War, and 50 million of these were made in Northamptonshire. This 1914-18 British Army boot. Regulation No 2, Eton Balmoral boot, was manufactured by Simon Collier Ltd, Harlestone Road, Northampton. They boasted that the two million boots they made would stretch in line toe to heel from Northampton to Edinburgh.
In the pink
In the pink Pink is a controversial colour evoking strong feelings of attraction and revulsion. Before the late 1600s, pink was often ignored in favour of shades of red and there was no word in the English language to properly describe it. During the 1700s in France, pink was a fashionable ‘new’ colour and was worn by both men and women as a sign of taste and class. This pair of women’s pale pink silk damask buckle latchet shoes are from the 1740s. From around 1660 highly decorative shoe buckles were worn, first by men with women adopting them later, perhaps because their shoes were hidden beneath long skirts. Buckles then became the prevailing style until the time of the French Revolution of 1789. Another feature of women’s shoes at this time was the white kid-leather rand. The rand is the narrow strip of leather that sits between the upper and sole. It was easier for shoemakers to sew the delicate upper to the soft leather rand first and then sew the rand to the sole.
The nineteenth century fashion for boots particularly for outdoor wear meant etiquette required a change of shoe once indoors. For both men and women, the indoor slipper became popular.
For men the basic style was a tabbed fronted slip on shoe often worked in a Berlin wool design, tapestry or kelim tapestry weave. This style eventually became known as the Albert slipper, in which the vamp extended upwards to form a tongue resting on the foots instep. The style has remained a classic. Today the Albert slipper is usually made from black velvet with a quilted lining and leather sole.
These slippers sport a wool cross stitch design of stars and circles and are dated 1870-90s.
Emma Hope designed this mule. Made of red velvet, the front section of the shoe, known as the vamp, is decorated with a gold thread diamond design with glass beads. An applique design in gold and cream leather of two cupids is either side of a large gold heart. The embroidery was by Karen Spurgin, 1987-94.
Emma Hope’s tagline is ‘Regalia for Feet’ and anyone celebrating Valentine’s day would surely have a great time in such a romantic design.
Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer
Instead of Christmas jumpers we have Christmas slippers.
These Rudolph slippers complete with antlers and red noses were made in 1998 by ‘Kekko Fun Slipper’ in Korea. For many people the song of the misfit reindeer saving the day is an integral part of Christmas.
The first reference to Santa Claus having eight reindeer to draw his sleigh is in Clement C. Moore’s 1823 poem ‘A Visit from St. Nicolas.’ So like many other Christmas traditions – Christmas trees and turkey – Rudolph was established as part of nineteenth century folklore.
Happy Christmas from everyone at Northampton Museums!
These amazing shoes were made Kumiko Nishibuchi in 2007 whilst she was undertaking a shoemaking course at Tresham College in Northamptonshire.
They are a pair of women’s beige leather open toed court shoes with looped straps of leather across the instep. They have a removable collar that forms a fan framing the back of the shoe, attached to the high, tapered heels with Velcro.
Would you wear these?
Lost your sparkle?
Dating from 1690 this buckle latchet shoe has faded from its original vibrant orange and the braid has tarnished. It now appears a completely different shoe to when it was new.
In the late 17th Century such shoes would have made a statement about their owner’s wealth with imported brightly coloured silk and a wide band of silver brocade, like a go-faster stripe, from toe to heel. The brocade is made from very thin silver ribbons or strips woven together by highly skilled craftsmen in a very labour-intensive process.
The needlepoint toes and shaped Louis heel were the height of fashion and the shoes would have been fastened with a cut glass or paste buckle.
This Nigerian clog sandal has been carved from a single piece of wood that has been hollowed-out to create two stilts at front and back. The wood has been decorated with black poker work in geometric patterns around the sides of the clog. Held on the foot with two types of leather thongs; two overlapping wide leather straps are joined by a slimmer, plaited leather cord between the toes. The leather thongs have also been decorated in similar geometric patterns and are threaded through holes in the sole and knotted in place. The sandal has woven leather buttons to fasten the straps together.
Made in 1924.
Summer Holiday on a Shoe?
Made in California, in 1990, by Two Left Feet these shoes take Carmen Miranda’s signature fruit headdress and relocate it onto flip flops.
These ‘Fruit Flops’ are one of the most cheerful pairs of shoes in our collection. With luscious bunches of green grapes, complete with vine leaves, cherries, flowers and pearl beads decorating the white plastic sandals they cannot help but make people smile.
The Brazilian Bombshell would definitely approve.